Choosing the Right Pinball Machine for Your Home

With thousands of pinball machines out there, finding the right one for home enjoyment can be a challenge. This guide complements my main article on buying a pinball machine, be sure to check that out as well!

Start Simple

Sometimes the choice is straightforward: perhaps there’s only one machine available or only one within your budget. That's fine! But it’s important to know whether the game suits your preferences and play style, or if holding out for a better match might be worthwhile.

The Market Has Evolved

When I originally wrote this page back in 2003, the market was very different. New machines were rare and prohibitively expensive, while older models were easy to find. Today, thanks to companies like Stern Pinball targeting home buyers more than commercial operators, things have flipped. You'll find a thriving market for newer used machines in great condition, whilst it became impossible to find a warehouse full of old forgotten games, just like I did many years ago.

Play Before You Pay

You’re buying a machine to play, so you need to enjoy it. Play the game as much as possible before making a decision. Try different models and brands to compare the feel. Just be cautious: playing machines that are far beyond your budget might spoil you. Once you've experienced the thrill of a $5000 machine, it’s hard to settle for one that costs $750. Usually there's a reason for the huge price difference.

If your budget is modest, say $750, you can test games up to $1000 to assess whether it's worth stretching a little. But don’t tempt yourself with ultra-premium machines unless you’re ready to spend more. And if you’re choosing between EM games, avoid trying out the latest modern releases. Yoou’ll only be distracted by features your budget doesn’t allow for.

Types and Variations

Pinball games come in several categories:

• EM (Electromechanical)
• Early Solid State (Bally/Williams/Stern)
• DMD-era games (Gottlieb, Bally/Williams, Data East, Sega, Capcom)
• Modern games with a screen (Stern after 2010)

Each type plays and feels different. If prices are close, compare and choose what feels best to you. But if there's a significant price difference, focus only on what you can realistically afford.

Understand What You Like

Not all machines offer the same experience. Do you prefer fast-paced games with smooth flow? Or intricate patterns that require difficult, skillful shots? Do you want to work through story-based modes to reach an objective, or just rack up high scores by hitting targets endlessly? Do you want to have a quick, exciting 5 minute game, or a machine where a good game takes an hour and you still only have reached half of the storyline?

Identify features that appeal to you—and be honest about what you dislike. It could be a theme, gameplay element, or even the sound and music. If the overall gameplay seems too challenging, don’t worry: skills grow over time. But if there’s something you outright hate, more playtime won’t fix that. Steer clear of machines that include features you genuinely dislike.

Working Condition Is Key

Is the machine working perfectly? If this is your first pinball purchase and you haven’t done repairs before, avoid buying a machine with issues. Even minor problems, like a broken fuse, can lead to bigger headaches. If the seller hasn’t fixed a &simple& problem, ask yourself why.

You might get lucky and solve an issue quickly, but more often you’ll find yourself investing lots of time trying to fix something while making it worse. It’s much easier to learn how a pinball machine works on a fully functioning one. Unless you prefer tinkering more than playing, buy one that runs smoothly.
Many people have obtained a dislike for a certain of their machines because it always breaks down or it needs some adjustment.

Popularity vs Personal Fit

Take opinions of others with a grain of salt. Some games, like Twilight Zone, are collector favorites but are designed for advanced players. They’re technical and challenging, not necessarily ideal for casual or beginner enjoyment. Some games may grow on you after weeks of play, but if you're not planning to become a die-hard fan, simpler titles might be a better fit.

Keep in mind that opinions change over time. Games like Bram Stoker’s Dracula or Cirqus Voltaire weren’t popular at launch but are now sought after. Some machines that didn’t perform well commercially are very entertaining in a home environment. So while feedback from experienced players can be helpful when comparing unfamiliar games, always prioritize your own enjoyment.

Opinions of others are only useful when you can choose between games which you don't know very well yourself. Then others who know the games better can aid you choosing which is the best value for money. You may e.g. know 2 games for sale for $800 and another for $1200. You'd go for one of the $800 ones because every game is the same for you and you like them all.
However, one of the two $800 games can be much better then the other. Or people can advise you to buy the $1200 game, because it really is a much better game, which you'll enjoy much more, and which will hold its value better when you want to sell it.

Production Numbers Are Not Everything

Don’t buy a machine just because it’s rare, especially if it will be your only game. Often, low production numbers indicate poor gameplay. Exceptions exist, like Gottlieb Krull or Capcom Big Bang Bar. But many timeless classics were mass produced, such as Bally Fathom, Fireball, Xenon, and Gottlieb Haunted House. Collectors seek these in top condition for good reason: they’re fun!
The machines with very low production numbers usually were not mass produced because there was no demand for them - they didn't earn because they were no fun. If you want to start a collection of rare games, be my guest. If you want to select one game for your home to play and enjoy, you're probably better off with a mass produced game that is more fun to play.

Know Your Audience

Who are you buying the game for? Yourself, a child, a seasoned player? If it’s for a child, choose something with straightforward gameplay. Most EM or pre-DMD solid-state machines are perfect for this. If you’re skilled and want a challenge, go for a DMD or newer machine with deep rulesets.

True story: I bought my Twilight Zone from someone who purchased it for his seven-year-old daughter. She was thrilled just keeping the ball alive—but completely missed the advanced rule set.

Buying for Young Children

Small kids tend to flip constantly, even when the ball isn't near the flippers, or hold the flippers down for long periods. Over time, this can cause wear or technical issues. EM games are generally sturdy and can handle this behavior, though holding flippers too long can stress them. Be cautious with first-generation solid-state models (especially Bally/Stern), which were built for short-term commercial use and may not withstand repetitive abuse now.

My advice: for kids under six, opt for a reliable late-'80s Gottlieb or similar game if you look for a cheap game. These are more robust and can better handle the random flipping stage of play. Or a more recent game. And be prepared to teach them proper techniques and schedule regular repairs if needed.

Theme Enthusiasts

If you love a particular theme—Star Trek, Dolly Parton, Porsche, Corvette, sports, or bands like Kiss and Guns N' Roses, there’s probably a machine out there for you. Go for it, even if the gameplay isn’t exceptional. Loving the theme can make the machine worth owning, even if it's not a top-ranked title.

That said, themed games can carry higher prices, and not all are fun to play. Conversely, some older themes may look dated but offer excellent gameplay and often at lower prices due to reduced demand. If you’re okay with how the machine looks, you might get a hidden gem.

Stern has created the last 20 years only licensed games, finding a non-licensed game is almost impossible. So find one with a theme you really like.

Electro-Mechanical (EM) Machines

EM machines are the vintage classics, made before around 1977. These are driven entirely by mechanical switches, relays, and stepper units. The score reels spin to show your score, and the whole machine feels alive with clunks, buzzes, and clicks. Their charm is undeniable.

One big advantage: once properly maintained and played regularly, EM machines can run for decades with minimal trouble. They’re simple, reliable, and built to last. If you're looking for a machine that could still be working in 50 or even 100 years, this is the kind of build you want. Just be sure it’s already in working condition, or that you know how to keep one running.

Or Solid State?

Solid-state machines are the next generation, controlled by microprocessors. Your score is displayed electronically: first on numeric LED panels, and later (starting in the early ‘90s) on dot-matrix displays with full animations and more recent games have full computer screens in them. These games often include diagnostic modes that check sensors and report problems automatically.

They open up a world of new possibilities: deeper rule sets, multiball modes, complex objectives, mini games, speech, music, and light shows. But with complexity comes risk: older solid-state machines may use obsolete components, making repairs tough unless you know electronics or have help. Gameplay can be richly rewarding, but don’t assume all SS machines are better than EMs. Some EMs are amazing fun, and some SS games are surprisingly bland.

Choosing a Brand

If you’re going for a dot-matrix machine (DMD), you’ll find several major brands: Williams/Bally, Data East/Sega, Gottlieb, and Capcom.

Williams/Bally usually dominate collectors' wishlists. On average, they made the most innovative and entertaining machines. They also benefit from widespread documentation and repair knowledge, plus a strong aftermarket for spare parts. But no brand is perfect—they made duds too.

Data East and Sega also created some excellent games: Tommy, Star Wars, Last Action Hero, and others. Their rules are often simpler (great for younger players), and they’re less prone to technical breakdowns. Parts support for these machines is still available via Stern, though importing parts from the U.S. can be costly.

Gottlieb games, especially System 3 models from the late '80s and '90s, are generally easy to use and dependable—but may lack depth or flair. They’re harder to repair due to fewer available resources and trained technicians.

Capcom released a handful of fantastic machines—like Big Bang Bar and Breakshot, but their short production run means parts are harder to find.

Bottom line: don’t be too brand-loyal. Every manufacturer has hits and misses. If possible, find a reliable repair technician near you who’s familiar with your chosen machine, and if your game needs specific or rare parts, confirm they’re available before you buy.

EM Machine Brands

For EM games, brand isn’t as critical. Whether it’s Bally, Williams, Gottlieb, or a European manufacturer like Zaccaria or Recel, each company produced hits and misses. Buy what you like and what’s in good condition.

In general, European machines tend to be cheaper than their American counterparts due to lower demand. Most collectors specifically want U.S.-made machines, even when Spanish or French versions use identical parts. Of course, there are exceptions: some collectors specialize in obscure European brands. But beware as replacement parts for rare Italian or Spanish games may be nearly impossible to source.

Looks Matter

You should genuinely like the visual design of the machine. For some people, looks are a major factor, especially if the machine sits in a living room or game room. Are you buying a game to play regularly, or as a showpiece to impress guests?

Games like Theatre of Magic, Tales of the Arabian Nights, and Cirqus Voltaire fetch higher prices largely due to their stunning artwork and light shows, even if their gameplay isn’t revolutionary. If visuals matter to you, prioritize accordingly. Just know you might be paying more for beauty than substance.

Unique Features doesn't equal Unique Experience

Don't be fooled by hype around unique playfield features. Yes, some games were the first to do something cool, like Gorgar being the first talking pinball machine or Orbitor One with its curved playfield. But here’s the secret: virtually every game has some special gimmick. More flippers, banana flippers, zippered flippers, rotary targets, magnetic ball locks, disappearing bumpers… the list goes on.

It’s neat trivia, sure. But don’t base your entire purchase decision on one novelty feature. Gameplay, replayability, and theme should weigh far more heavily. If you dig into history, you’ll discover that every machine has something unique, but not necessarily fun. If a selles put too much emphasis that his game was first to have a certain feature, that may mean there's not much else interesting to say about it. And being first doesn't mean much, if the games that came behind it improved the feature.

Resale Value

Resale shouldn’t be your main focus, but if you're choosing between similarly priced machines, it’s worth considering. A popular Williams/Bally title will be easier to sell down the line than a lesser-known Data East or Sega game. Collectors tend to follow trends, and demand creates liquidity.

Let’s say you buy a $400 game and resell it later for $200. That’s a $200 loss. Now compare it to buying a $2000 machine and having to sell it urgently, your loss could be $500 or more. Higher initial prices carry higher potential risk, unless the machine is in top shape and highly desirable.

This isn’t just about future sales. It also affects maintenance. If your machine needs a costly repair, you’re more likely to invest in fixing a $4000 pin than a $400 one. Either way, assess your comfort level with potential financial risk.

Condition Counts

If you're choosing between multiple pinball machines that are similar in price, gameplay, and demand, prioritize condition. A machine in better shape:clean cabinet, intact artwork, clear ramps, and minimal wear, will reward you over time, both in enjoyment and resale value.

If one game is slightly more expensive but much cleaner and better preserved, it's usually worth the extra investment. That is, assuming you plan to maintain its condition. A well-kept, popular title will retain value better and may even appreciate over time, especially as the number of pristine units continues to decline.

However, if you're buying just to play and aren’t concerned about aesthetics or long-term upkeep, feel free to grab the cheaper unit and dive into the fun. Machines that are used without regular care accumulate wear: scratches, faded plastics, cracked ramps. Collectors tend to be picky. They want games that look factory-fresh and often frown upon signs of use, even minor ones.

I once had a clear example of this: an operator I know was selling two Star Trek: The Next Generation machines. One was priced at €1050 and had visible scratches and signs of wear. The other cost €1100 but was in excellent condition: no cabinet damage, clearer ramps, polished parts, everything felt tighter and cleaner. In that case, spending €50 more was clearly the better choice. The resale value and buyer interest in the cleaner machine would be significantly higher.

Even if the price difference is larger, don’t assume you’ll save money by buying the cheaper unit and restoring it yourself. Replacement parts like ramps, decals, and cabinet artwork can cost more than you expect, often exceeding the difference in price between a rough and a clean machine. Plus, finding original parts and installing them takes time, effort, and sometimes specialized knowledge. In the end, starting with a machine in top shape may save you money, hassle, and give you a more satisfying ownership experience.

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